Dining

Growing up between two very different and distinct worlds, Chef Cristian Goya’s tastes have been inspired by the melding of cultures, and influenced by the creativity of the Japanese-Peruvian, Nikkei cuisine. Goya is a second-generation Argentinian of Japanese descent. His grandparents founded a horticulture business on arrival in South America, and became part of a growing Japanese immigrant community. They were keen for their grandsons to appreciate their Japan heritage, so Goya and his brother spent summers at school in the city of Okinawa. In 2018, Goya created a pop-up concept at Summersalt in Jumeirah Al Naseem. Here, we find out about the journey that led him here.

When did you become interested in cooking?

Food is something that has been important to me since I was a child. As the son of hard-working parents, the responsibility fell to me for the daily meals, and from an early age I was always in the kitchen. Through cooking for my family, I found pleasure. The necessity for good, fresh food is an ingredient not only to be healthy but also happy. As a boy I was always learning in the kitchen, and I still have that curiosity today.

Why Japanese-South American fusion?

I have kept close to my Japanese ancestry. I consider myself a proud Argentinian and Buenos Aires is my city. However, my family was from Okinawa, a Japanese island in the East China Sea, where people are renowned for their gentle temperament and life is relaxed and tranquil. Okinawa is famed for having the longest life expectancy in the world, due partly to the environment but also thanks to the abundance of fresh produce and a culture of quality food. I believe I carry this spirit of calm into my kitchen and into my cooking.

How important has your family been in your journey?

My grandparents left Japan with nothing. Their courage as they made the long journey to Argentina by boat has always been a source of inspiration and strength to me. I appreciate how lucky I am and I don’t waste time or opportunity. I am thankful to them for the life I have been able to enjoy, and for the strong work ethic they instilled in me. My mother wanted me to have a university education and so I studied nutrition as I knew I wanted to be a chef.

What brought you to Dubai?

The challenge of opening new restaurants and to learn about different cultures.

What is your ambition at Summersalt?

My vision is for people to come and enjoy a relaxed atmosphere, not fine dining but still a place with exceptional food, great quality and taste. I want guests to enjoy generous food that they can share. The food is part of the experience.

What do you do in your spare time? 

I love to fish. As a youngster I would fish with my grandfather along the riverbanks and lakes near where I grew up in Buenos Aires.

Favourite foods?

Salmon Tataki sweet and sour sauce is my favourite recipe, but my favourite food is asados, Argentinian barbecue. It is a very special way to cook meat and takes time and concentration. In Argentina it is more of a ritual than a cooking experience.

Food heroes?

When I started my career I really admired Nobu Matsuhisa. I liked his use of flavour and the Peruvian influence in his food. I don’t follow celebrity chefs so don’t have a particular hero. My mother had the biggest impact on me and influenced my decision to become a chef. She had no time to cook when I was a child as she was working long hours building a life for me and my brother. I took over the responsibility for feeding us as a family and I enjoyed it so much I decided to dedicate my career to cooking. Today my mother has more time and she is an excellent cook.

How do you see your culinary journey ending?

I want to live a relaxed and quiet life back in Buenos Aires. Maybe have a little place where I can cook for friends. Somewhere to share good food but in a simple and relaxed setting.